Domaine M. Bouzereau

I have been lucky to meet Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau (son of Michel) a few times over the years, and with his sophisticated manner and blondish hair he appears as structured and elegant as the family’s style of wines.

The office where he receives visitors for tastings is also remarkable, with the oversized windows, glass tables, and light color scheme one does not usually find in Burgundy. These observations are interesting because there is quite a connection between the style of the wines and the men who created them.

During the tasting, we tried different vineyards in Meursault, with Jean-Baptiste pointing out the subtle differences in flavor with the help of a vineyard map. Some of the climats had very different terroir (clay vs. limestone) and the 1st cru wines we tried were striking in terms of their power, concentration, and length.  I liked the 1st cru of Les Genevrieres very much.

It was a fabulous visit, and many thanks to Jeanne-Marie De Champs of Domaines et Saveurs (who imports his wine to the USA) for arranging it.

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Visiting Burgundy Wine Producers During Hospices De Beaune 2018

One of the joys of visiting during the Hospices De Beaune auction is the opportunity to visit new and familiar wine producers with Jeanne-Marie de Champs, owner of Domaines et Saveurs Collection. For the past five or so years it has been a real adventure to leave the fast-paced Manhattan “city life” behind and travel back in time.

Over the years I have walked deep into 12th century cellars, tasted wine from barrel that will one day fetch hundreds of dollars a bottle, and shook the hands of dozens of winemakers who make the regions very best wines.

Below is a directory of sorts of my adventures and visits.

Domaine Bart

Domaine Lamarche

Jean Fery & Fils

Domaine Albert Morot

Domaine Parent

Domaine M Bouzerau

The post Visiting New (And Familiar) Producers of Jeanne-Marie De Champs of Domaines et Saveurs Collection appeared first on Wine Region Travel & Reviews: A Wine Story.

MDV with organizer Fabienne Nicot of Histoires des vins

One of the many highlights of visiting Burgundy during the Hospices de Beaune is the annual tasting of Gevrey-Chambertin wines. This year the invited group tasted the 2017 from all the Grand cru, 1st cru, and village plots.

It was fun to see many old friends and vignerons at the tastings, and that the 2017 vintage is full of promise.

Talk was that the 2017 is very much like the 1959, with a cold winter, several weeks of frost in January, and an early flowering. The hot June allowed the grapes to form a harder skin. This harder skin allowed the berries to endure the storms that occurred in the second half of June and July. Harvest began on September 6.

The wines were young but did have elegance and excellent balance. It is hard to name a favorite, but Faiveley Chambertin-Close de Beze was fabulous and I had several circles around Taupenot-Merme for their Mazoyeres Chambertin.

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My place setting

One of my favorite activities in Burgundy for the Hospices de Beaune auction weekend is the traditional “La Paulee de Meursault.”  It first manifested in 1923, when Jules Lafon of Burgundy’s Domaine Lafon invited 35 of his vigneron friends into his vat-room to share in a post-harvest feast.

MDV & Dominique LaFon

The original participants of that small event would be surprised to see how it has grown over the years. Today, the event is under the direction of Philippe Ballot, President of La Paulée de Meursault and an owner of Domaine Ballot Millot, as well as Séverine, Secrétaire de la Paulée.

Each year, the lunch pays homage to famous writers and scientists each year. This year, author Irene Train won the “laureate du prix” for La Paulee 2018 for her work with women’s rights.

The tradition for La Paulee is for guests to arrive at noon, tour the famous caves of the Chateau de Meursault, and chat until the lunch begins.

It was fun to catch up with Meursault producers such as Dominique LaFon and meet visitors from around the world, including people in the wine trade I know from my home town of Manhattan in New York including Daniel Johannes, who created the various La Paulee events in the USA and London.

This year, the menu included an extra course of royal dorade in addition to the foie gras, lobster, cote de boeuf, cheese, and dessert — all the better for matching the various wines that guests bring to share with one another.

Daniel Johannes with MDV

This year, I was seated next to Estelle Prunier of Domaine Michel Prunier, and her cousin Jean-Pierre Laurent, and we had a fabulous discussion about the large Prunier family which is divided into many different domains.

On my right was the excellent producer Gilles LaFouge of Domaine LaFouge in Auxey-Duresses, who I met with Jeanne-Marie De Champs of Domaines et Saveurs a few years back.

Gilles of Domaine LaFouge

Séverine

Thank you to Philippe Ballot, Séverine, and the entire La Paulee team.

 

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Before the auction, there was a lunch for journalists with incredible cuisine and also Hospices de Beaune wines.

Before the lunch, was an excellent press conference discussing the vintage with officials including Ludivine Griveau, winemaker and vineyard manager for Domaine des Hospices de Beaune. Ludivine is most impressive as a communicator as well as winemaker.

Following the press conference was a reception with wines specifically chosen by the BIVB, and producers on hand to discuss them.

Other tastings included a Friday morning preview and a Saturday afternoon tasting of the young wines, this year in a “walk around” style rather than seated as has been done in the past.

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La Paulee du Meursault President Philippe Ballot with Daniel Johannes

La Paulée du Meursault Wine Pairing Lunch 2018 with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Imagine yourself a chef. Your mission is to present a four course food and wine pairing menu for the 2018 La Paulee du Meursault lunch.  Most important, each dish must pair with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from various regions in Burgundy (Bourgogne, in French).

The annual La Paulee du Meursault food and wine pairing lunch is held in the village of Meursault, France. This village is famous for its white Chardonnay wines from village and premiere cru vineyards. Tradition holds that each guest brings their own white or red Bourgogne wine to the lunch.

As a chef, what dishes will you prepare that can pair with the diversity of wines people will bring? After all, these wines can range from priceless Pinot Noir Grand Cru classics to younger, fresher expressions of village and 1st cru Meursault Chardonnay wines.

Some people call Meursault white wine “white Burgundy.” While this is technically correct, Burgundy wine lovers prefer to be very specific as to the region the “white burgundy” is from, and its quality levels.

Such is the challenge Chef Dominique Dansard faces for the 2018 La Paulee du Meursault wine and food pairing lunch. The harvest celebration lunch takes place at the famous Chateau du Meursault winery. In this wine pairing situation, he will not have the luxury of tasting the Pinot Noir or Chardonnay wine guests bring on their own in advance.

Daniel Johannes with Marisa D’Vari

Why Advance Tasting of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Burgundian Food and Wine Pairing is Important

Both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are international grapes. They are made all around the world in many different styles. Many wine experts can blind taste a Pinot Noir or Chardonnay wine from diverse, broad regions such as South Australia or Sonoma, California and correctly deduce its origins.

But Burgundy is different. Though it is a very small region, each Chardonnay or Pinot Noir wine can taste different depending on its specific village. And within that village, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir can differ dramatically depending on its quality level. Quality levels can range from a simple village designation to a Grand Cru. And even within that narrow range, the style in which it is made is producer dependent.

On top of that, the vintage in terms of weather can affect the taste and food pairing ability of the Chardonnay or Pinot Noir wine dramatically.

So as you can see, Chef Dansard must create a menu that will literally go with every Pinot Noir or Chardonnay wine that could be imagined.

Dominique Lafon with Marisa D’Vari at La Paulee du Meursault

History of La Paulee Du Meursault Wine and Food Pairing Lunch

The year 1923 sees the first La Paulee du Meursault. At the time, Jules Lafon of Burgundy’s Domaine des Comtes Lafon invites 35 of his vigneron friends to share in a post-harvest feast.

The Lafon family is well-known in Burgundy and now the world. This is largely due to the charismatic Dominique Lafon who so well carries on the legacy of his grandfather Jules.

Jules remains an innovative and personable figure. He is known for a passion for art and literature. He remains a major force in promoting the region and its wines. For this reason, by 1932, the La Paulee du Meursault wine and food pairing lunch is a regular event, growing steadily over the years.

Today the La Paulee du Meursault food and wine pairing lunch celebration is under the direction of Philippe Ballot. M. Ballot is President of La Paulée de Meursault, and an owner of Domaine Ballot Millot. A major focus of La Paulee today is to pay homage to the most influential writers and scientists each year. In 2018, author Irene Train wins the “laureate du prix” for La Paulee 2018 for her work with women’s rights globally

The Tradition of La Paulee Du Meursault Food and Wine Pairing

Chateau du Meursault

La Paulee offers attendees an opportunity to visit the cellars of the host winery, Chateau du Meursault. Before lunch, guests enjoy  a glass of the new vintage of Classic Meursault Chardonnay. Guests descend down to the Chateau de Meursault cellar.  Though I visit hundreds of cellars over the years, few experiences can match the thrill of this ancient historical cellar.

Near one o’clock, guests find their tables and begin the food and wine pairing lunch feast. Between each of the four courses, the event’s honorees come up to the podium to give a short speech about their research.

Once the food and wine pairing meal resumes, Meursault wine producers visit each table to pour their wines. Friends “table hop” to greet one another, and a chorus sings “Le Bon Bourguignon.”

Each year, the La Paulee wine and food pairing menu has certain constant, classic dishes. Foie Gras. Crustaceans. Fish. Beef. Fromage. Dessert. Yet always with a new expression, presentation, or sauce.

The November 19, 2018 La Paulee Du Meursault menu

1^st Course Foie Gras de Canard
Petit epeautre de Sault et paleron confit. Cannelloni de celery et pomme vert releve au poivre Malabar

La Paulee Foie Gras wine pairing

Of course, many meals in Burgundy begin with Foie Gras. The food and wine pairing twist in this course is the subtle spice and slight confit accent. A textural element is the “crunch” the crisp diced celery and green apple tucked inside the cannelloni provides.

Classic wine pairing with foie gras usually involves a sweet wine such as Sauternes, but this is Meursault. Which means Chardonnay wine. Because of the contrast between the rich Foie Gras and the snappy “crunch” of the celery and apple, I really liked the 2016 Domaine LaFourge Auxey-Duresses from by my seat neighbor Gilles LaFourge.

Like many domaines in Burgundy, the LaFouge Family conveniently have their cellar, vats, and their barrels, built beneath their relatively modern looking home.  The secret of the success of their delicious Chardonnay wine is their diligent approach to viticulture and their special Le Boutonnieres and La Chapelle vineyards.

La Paulee lobster wine pairing (2)

2^nd Course Navarin de homard Breton
Aux petits legumes et son cremeux au corail

This dish is Breton lobster, served with “coral cream” — heavy cream infused with tarragon, rich fish stock, carrots, and tomato paste.

Most guests at the tables choose to pair white wines with this lobster dish. As the winemakers circulate the tables with their bottles, a producer pouring a 1999 Les Genevrieres Meursault Premier Cru approaches. This is a 1st cri white wine from the Chardonnay grape. With nearly 20 years of age, this Genevrieres Meursault Premier Cru wine has richness, concentration, and is a great pairing for this dish. This is especially true as the subtle sea brine nature of the lobster enhances the subtle salty minerality of the wine.

This said, I personally would prefer to try a red wine with the lobster as it is served with a red wine sauce. As I write many articles along the lines of “how to pair red wine with fish and seafood” I believe the way a dish is prepared makes it possible to pair with red wine. So in this dish, the red wine sauce surrounding the lobster makes a red wine pairing possible. Here, a great pairing choice would be a softer, aged, more “feminine” Pinot Noir. This could be the 2005 Domaine Parent Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes from Domaine Parent. The vibrant acidity of this wine will cut through the crème in the sauce, while the infusion of tarragon in the sauce picked up on a certain subtle herbaceous quality of the wine.

La Paulee dorade wine pairing

3^rd Course La daurade royale sauvage de la cotiniere cuite a l’etouffe, agrumes, avocat et coriander

Chef Dansard enjoys the discreet use of fresh herbs to give his dishes vibrancy. In this dish of fresh and simply cooked daurade, Chef Dansard adds punch with coriander and citrus. This dish is best paired with white wine, and in this case the 2007 Meursault-Charmes 1^st Cru, “Les Charmes Dessus” presented by Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau of Michel Bouzereau. Like all of this producer’s wines, elegance and purity are the signature here, especially with its long length of finish and concentration of fruit.

La Paulee steak wine pairing

4^th Course Le dos de Charolais servi comme une cote de boeuf sur ses legumes du moment

“Charolais” is a breed of beef cattle that is very tall and muscular.  Connoisseurs appreciate it for its special flavor and tender texture.

For this dish, Chef Dansard cut the beef in a fashion more typical of cote de boeuf. As you can see from the picture, the Charolais is served very pink and tender,. It was subtly infused with flavor from the delicious mushrooms that accompanies it. This dish demanded a fuller bodied wine, such as a classic vintage of Les Rugiens Pommard or Corton Grand Cru Les Renards.

Finale of an All-Day Food and Wine Pairing Event

Throughout the lunch, singers sing, speakers speak, and everyone has fun as they chat and enjoy the delicious food and wine.

I am sure Jules Lafon, its founder, would be proud of the international acclaim Chardonnay wine from Meursault now receives, and impressed by the food and wine pairing abilities of Chef Dansard.

Many thanks to the organizers of La Paulee du Meursault, including M. Philippe Ballot for keeping this beautiful tradition alive.

The post La Paulee Du Meursault 2018: Wine Pairing White Burgundy Chardonnay and Pinot Noir With Food appeared first on Wine Region Travel & Reviews: A Wine Story.

2019 Millesima Blog Awards Finalist for Wine Travel

Finalist in 2019 Millesima Blog Awards

Very excited to hear I am a finalist in the 2019 Millesima Blog Awards for Wine Travel.

The wine story is called The Roussillon of Southern France: Fortified and Sweet in More Ways than One.

The story is very special for me because visiting this wild, untamed region had always been a fantasy.

And of course, during my long years studying for the Wine and Spirits Educational Trust (WSET) we HAD to know all about Banyuls Grand Cru.

The People

Of course, the wine was fabulous. I went to the Roussillon looking to see those enormous wooden vats where wine made from Grenache grapes spends ten years – and more – waiting to “come of age.”

Yet more than the classic traditional sweet wine, I also discovered the people of the Roussillon. They are so elated  to have the freedom to speak their Catalan language. They are so excited to have the freedom to make dry wine that so exquisitely expresses the unique terroir of the region.

Though the dry wines are excellent, what also surprised me most was the energy of boutique producers who are now creating long-lived, oak-aged white wines from Grenache Gris and Blanc that can rival the best dry white wines of the world.

Very grateful to have experienced this region and am hoping this Roussillon wine travel story will inspire people to visit. It is just 45 minutes by train from the Barcelona airport.

The Roussillon of Southern France: Fortified and Sweet in More Ways Than One

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Curious about what dessert goes with Champagne, Sparkling Wine, or Bubbly?

I love Champagne.

And as much as I love Champagne, I love dessert even more!

Though I am using the word “Champagne” here, you can apply the same dessert pairing concepts with Sparkling Wine or bubbly from many regions.

This is as long as the signature “Champagne grapes” Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes are included.

The Differences Between Champagne and Sparkling Wine Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the “Traditional Method”

There are many differences between sparkling wine made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from regions outside Champagne, and within Champagne.

In some cases the differences are very subtle, others more dramatic.

You may be surprised that some sparkling wine from England, Australia, New Zealand, and California may be several times the price of the most popular branded Champagne houses.

For the most part, the differences are subtle, and should not affect the result if you replace your sparkling wine with genuine Champagne from the Champagne region from France.

Why Dessert Is Best Paired with Champagne (or your favorite Chardonnay and Pinot Noir based Sparkling wine)

I have many (perhaps too many) diplomas in gastronomy.

One of the “fanciest” is the Heg Diplome from the University of Reims.

While we did not spend the entire 14 days drinking Champagne with dessert, we had many lectures and tutored tasting events with Champagne.

Historical manuscripts point out that historically in France, Champagne was always served with dessert in palaces and at state dinners.

This makes perfect sense.

Champagne is crisp, refreshing, and (for me) has an energizing effect.

This is especially true after a long dinner.

It revives.

So then, what are the best Champagne and Wine Pairing Choices?

What Dessert goes with Champagne?

The main consideration when pairing dessert with Champagne or Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) is that you will ideally want to contrast the texture of the dessert with the wine, or match the texture.

Champagne and Chocolate Pairing

You may be curious to discover this very personal thing about me, but I NEVER consume chocolate unless I am having it with Champagne.

Unlike a lot of people, I really do not crave chocolate all that much.

Yet when I am at a party or event when Champagne is being served, I’m always on the lookout for a delicious piece of chocolate.

And of course, when I am entertaining at home, I make sure that I have a great selection of the finest chocolate I can find in New York – or whatever city I happen to be in.

The Reason why Chocolate is a Great Match for Champagne

By definition, chocolate has a silky smooth mouthfeel.

It is also VERY RICH.

And it takes Champagne, with all that intense minerality and high levels of refreshing acidity, to contrast with that rich, creamy, smooth texture and intense flavor.

And interestingly, both Champagne and chocolate have a very long aftertaste.

So pairing Champagne with chocolate utilizes the principle of “contrast.”

Pairing Champagne with Macarons

To be very honest with you, I have always loved pairing Champagne with macarons.

Yet strangely, I never really thought about the “why” of why I enjoyed the pairing so much.

Now that I am thinking about it, the principle to be applied is the principle of “matching.”

When you think about it, macarons are light and airy … and also crisp!

This is the VERY DEFINITION of a good Champagne!

What an Event at the FIAF French Institute Alliance Française Taught Me

I was invited to attend a Champagne (and what I thought to be a Champagne and chocolate pairing at the FIAF here in NYC.)

It turned out to be a pairing of Champagne and macarons!

And even more exciting, it wasn’t just any “generic” Champagne paired with a macaron one would pick up from their local supermarket.

It was ultra-premium Champagne, with many of the brand managers and producers present to explain the story of their Champagne!

And the macarons were not generic either!

They were hand-baked by Thierry Atlan.

Contrasting the Flavor of Macarons with Champagne

The macaroons were presented in a variety of flavors (i.e. Foie Gras, etc) and the idea was for each Champagne to accompany the flavor of a specific macaroon.

List of the Champagnes

• Champagne  Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut
• Champagne  Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Royale Brut Rosé
• Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur
• Champagne Ayala Rosé Majeur
• Champagne  Besserat de Bellefon Special Cuvée
• Champagne Besserat de Bellefon Rosé 

Arriving at my seat, I was surprised to see six beautiful macarons.

The emcee for the evening was the beautiful and talented Susan Kostrzewa, Executive Editor of the popular magazine Wine Enthusiast.

Susan had the job of helping the various presenters explain why each differently flavored macaron, prepared by Thierry Atlan, paired with a specific Champagne.

Presenters

Maude Austrian, Besserat de Bellefon Champagne
Rafaela Fonte, Ayala Champagne
Cedric Lecendre, Laurent-Perrier
Fréderic Goossens, Managing Director at Baron François

 The Champagne and Macaron Tasting

For two hours, the presenters explained the history of their Champagne House as well as their individual philosophy.

During each of the presentations, attendees were able to taste the macaron intended to match that specific Champagne.

Though we did not receive encouragement to do so, some of us (yes, me!) also took advantage of the opportunity to taste each macaron with all of the Champagnes.

The result of the Champagne and Macaron Comparative Tasting.

The concept of pairing a macaron with a specific flavor (notably the inside filling) was fresh, unusual, and fun!

Though the attendees by necessity were all over the age of 21, the exercise of contrasting this flakey chewy desert with French bubbly was so much fun it was like being in a room with children.

As it might be difficult for you to recreate this exact Champagne and macaron experience, you are encouraged to visit your favorite bakery, choose one or macarons of each flavor, and then buy some Chardonnay or Pinot Noir based sparkling wines.

Invite some friends over and have fun biting into these delicious French cookies and seeing which pairing you like best.

Pairing Champagne with Strawberries and Raspberries

When I was very young, I remember placing a beautiful long stemmed strawberry into my glass of Champagne.

Looking back now, it was a “cute” romantic gesture, but a bit messy (the strawberry made the Champagne too frothy).

That said, I STILL like the idea of strawberries with Champagne.

Especially if they have a long stem!

And EVEN better if that strawberry had some melted chocolate to dip it in!

Other Ideas for what Dessert goes with Champagne

It’s easy to say that “any” dessert can go with Champagne.

Yet I really would stick with dessert ideas involving macarons or chocolate.If you are up for it, you might even want to pair Champagne with this Italian desert called zabaglione. This one involves strawberries

It is a bit like macarons in the sense eggs are involved (though here it is the yolk, not the whites).

Like a macaron (or a Meringue) the egg yolks are whisked until it is light and frothy … so lots of air.

Here is a recipe I found for a zabaglione with strawberries!

Happy dessert and Champagne pairing, and be sure to let me know which pairing you like best!

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3 Secrets of Pommard Pinot Noir

Do you love red Burgundy wine from Pommard?

Of course you do!

Pommard Pinot Noir is a closely held secret among those who love red wine from Burgundy, France.

Pommard Pinot Noir

What is Pommard Pinot Noir?

The Burgundy region of France has been famous for centuries.

Mostly only for two reasons.

Pinot Noir.

Chardonnay.

And there are two key regions in Burgundy, France.

The Cote de Beaune and The Cote de Nuit

Now the red Pinot Noir grape and the white Chardonnay grape are grown in both regions.

Yet “collectors” and “wine experts” through the centuries have given the highest rankings to Pinot Noir grapes grown in the Cote de Nuit.

And to them, the best Chardonnay comes from the Cote de Beaune.

Yet you can also find excellent Pinot Noir from Cote de Beaune, especially if it comes from Pommard.

Pommard for Pinot Noir

Pommard is one of the top regions in the Cote de Beaune for growing the Pinot Noir grape.

When I was first learning Burgundy grape characteristics, I asked one of my less credentialed teachers about Pinot Noir from Pommard.

“That’s tricky …” she said, trailing off.

Well, to be honest, Pommard is not tricky at all.

Pommard is the most full-bodied red wine of Burgundy’s Cote de Beaune

This might be what she meant by “tricky,” since the “stereotype” of the Cote de Beaune is the production of more “feminine” wines with fresh bright red cherry flavors.

Wines from the Cote de Nuits are expected to be deeper, darker, and with an aura of mystery.

They are velvety and round with intense red- and dark-fruit flavors and ripe tannins.

I would not describe them as “feminine” in the traditional sense.

Now just having seen the film “Colette” and also read her biography, if Pommard was a literary character it would be like Colette.

Seductive. Feminine. Yet firm and always in control.

Characteristics of Pommard Pinot Noir

These are wines meant to improve with age.

In time, you will find flavors of leather and chocolate.

Depending on your personal palate and whom you talk to, Pommard wines can have rustic notes on the palate.

Some might call them “classic big Burgundies.”

As contrasted to a delicate young Cote de Beaune Bourgogne wine you might pair with duck, these are wines for braised beef.

Premier Cru Pommard Pinot Noir

The Pommard appellation includes 28 Premier Cru vineyards recognized for producing exceptional wines.

Many experts have actually memorized each of these 1^st Cru regions, and know the characteristics of them all.

In this regard, MAPS are very helpful.

You will be able to see how – and why – the specific location of each plot can determine the quality of the grapes.

These include factors like the location on the slope.

Also VISITING the producers in the area and tasting the wines from their region can be of enormous help.

For example, Domaine Anne Parent has several top properties in Pommard and elsewhere in Burgundy.

Taking Pommard Pinot Noir on a Road Show

Thanks to the dedication of New York’s French Institute Alliance Française (FIAF), Pommard has come to New York!

And other French wine regions as well.

This French wine program at FIAF is offered several times a year.

Each time, a wine theme is presented, along with wines, producers, and food from that region.

This program was called “An Aromatic Wine Journey Through Burgundy”

I have been to a few of these FIAF programs and the structure is similar.

First, there is a panel of producers or representatives.

There is an emcee … for the last few times they have been editors from Wine Enthusiast magazine.

There is usually a set of wines to taste and food such as cheese, bread, or dessert to pair with the wine.

Exploring Pommard Pinot Noir and Other Burgundy Wines

On this particular night, we had a few wines to try before the Pommard Pinot Noir.

Neil Ruane, Export Manager for the USA from Boisset, was the first to speak about the delicious Boisset wines he brought.

The first was the Chateau de Rully 2016.

This is a white wine from Rully in the Cote Chalonnaise.

Rully makes twice as much red wine as white wine.

The wine was fresh, crisp, and delicious.

The second wine was a red from the commune of Mercurey, also in the Cote Chalonnaise.

This was the 2015 Domaine de la Bressande,

Lots of fresh red cherry and very delicious, from a very old domain.

Pommard Pinot Noir

A Window into A Pommard Pinot Noir based Chateau

The next four wines were produced from the owners of one of the oldest domains in Pommard.

Michael Baum is CEO and Owner of Chateau de Pommard.

He represents the fifth family to own the Chateau since its inception.

And as a master storyteller, he explained the history in a very vivid fashion.

From his name, you might correctly guess he was American.

He made his fortune in a variety of high tech companies in San Francisco.

This is what allowed him to buy, and more importantly renovate, the Chateau de Pommard.

This includes improvements in the vineyard as well as the Chateau itself.

One example of an improvement is that Chateau de Pommard is now in the process of turning itself biodynamic.

Another example is the list of activities and ways to visit you can find on their website.

During the course of his talk, Michael also explained that the winery is very child-friendly.

This means that children have tutored “juice” tastings instead of wine.

Stories about the Chateau de Pommard

French Chateaux have many stories to tell.

Drama. Drama. Drama.

In one of the rooms of the Chateau, one of the family owners suddenly fell down dead.

According to Michael, a sister entered the room shortly afterward.

Though startled, she reached for her watercolors/paints and quickly sketched the grim scene.

That work of art can be scene in another chateau in the region today.

Pommard is filled with beautiful chateaux you can visit. One of great interest can be found in Domaine Parent.

Wines of Chateau de Pommard

While you might think these are all Pommard Pinot Noir wines, Chateau de Pommard produces an elegant white as well from vines in Ladoix.

We started with the Famille Carabello-Baum Ladoix Premier Cru “Les Grechons” 2015.

Then we moved on to the Chateau de Pommard Vivant 2015.

This was a Pommard Pinot Noir in the classic style, very delicious.

Following was the Chateau de Pommard Clos Marey Monge 2015.

This comes from a single vineyard, so it was very intense and concentrated.

A Wine to age.

The last wine was the Chateau de Pommard Clos Marey-Monge 2012.

Now these two wines we tasted side by side to study the effects of the vintage on the wine.

Wine Enthusiast EMCEE at French Institute Alliance Française

Wine Enthusiast emcee Matt DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen are the Entertaining and Lifestyle Editors at Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

They are also known as the World Wine guys, and did a great job at moderating the panel.

So when you go to Burgundy, be certain to put Pommard on your list as you travel up and down this gorgeous region.

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Domaine Parent

Domaine Parent

It was delightful to see Anne Parent again, who is in charge of her family’s Pommard-based Domaine Parent with her sister Catherine.

The domaine was established in 1787, and Thomas Jefferson, the future president of the United States, had visited and found the wine quite pleasing.

As is typical, the visit began in the barrel room where hundreds of thousands of dollars of delicious wine was maturing in a variety of barrels with different ages and toasting levels. Typically, only the 1st cru wines located in the best sites (so they receive the most sun) receive the highest percentage of new French oak. Though it was very interesting to note that as we tasted the wines, the Grand Cru wines with 100% new French oak did not taste remotely oaky. The reason is because the wine had so much ripe fruit and was so concentrated it was very well integrated.

I was a bit surprised to see a change in the cellar since my visit of last year. In a grand place of honor, was the barrel with the name “Louis” – this signified the name of Anne’s first grandson. Yet it was quickly revealed that “Louis” was now being racked. He’s a vary small child now, so it will be a while until he could taste his own cuvee. Yet if you saw the pictures Anne occasionally posts on Facebook, he’s already quite experienced at harvest (especially when it comes to tasting the grapes).

Anne’s tastings are always very exciting because of a few reasons. One, she is very generous with her grand cru and 1st cru wines, especially given the small vintages of late. Yet she is a natural storyteller, and loves explaining the twists and turns of life that resulted in the place of respect she has today in the community. She was one of the first to turn the vineyards organic and biodynamic, for one thing. The reason is because when she first started, she did not have an enology or viticulture education. Yet she quickly realized that the chemical sales people did not know what they were talking about, and did not even ask about the nutritional requirements of the vine.

Domaine Parent

So at that point she took it upon herself to learn all she could about vine nutrition and the result can be found in the health of the grapes. It is said wine is made in the vineyard, and this is very much the case at this domaine.

Some of the best wine of the week was tasted at this table, including Grand Cru Corton (white and red) and various 1st cru Pommard.  Though the Grand Cru and 1st Cru wines are pricey, Domaine Parent makes some lovely, fresh, and elegant red and white Bourgogne wines that I can find at my local shop in New York.

Jeanne-Marie De Champs of Domaine Et Saveurs imports these wines to the United States.

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