What a treat to meet Matthieu Cuvelier, director of the gorgeous Clos Fourtet which his Paris-based family bought several decades ago.

Warm and gregarious, M. Cuvelier greeted us and showed us around the property, just a two minute walk from the center of St Emilion.

The estate existed from the Middle Ages, first as a military fort and then as a winery before it was purchased by the Cuvelier family in 2001. The Cuvelier family also owns Chateau Poujeaux in Moulis in the Haut Medoc.

I had tasted the delicious 2016 vintage during the En Primeur tasting and it got excellent scores, so I was excited to see the property. Though the chateau was quite elegant – as expected – what really excited me was the ancient caves carved out of limestone below. As I suspected, Matthieu’s young family enjoys playing here during weekend visits.

The vines are planted to 85% Merlot,10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and are sustainable with a bent toward being bio-dynamic.

The wine is aged for 18 months in 60% – 80% new French oak barrels. Towards the end of our visit, we tasted the Grand Vin as well as the second wine, Closerie de Fourtet.  The wines are very rich and flavorful, with incredible concentration of fruit and complexity.

It was a great visit and thanks very much to Matthieu Cuvelier and the Union Des Grand Crus for the visit.

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Karine Barbier, Public Relations manager, is a most gracious host as she welcomes us to Chateau Lascombes, a lavish Second Growth estate.

Though the estate existed for centuries its modern era began in 1952 when it was  purchased by a group of investors headed by Alexis Lichine. An enormous amount of time and money was spent bringing both the estate and the winery up to modern standards.

Though the estate is as glamorous as you would expect, the cellar is totally unexpected and a real treat – illuminated by electric blue lights, the cellar could also double as a high-end nightclub for special events.

During the tasting that followed the tour,  it was clear that wine is the real star.

Vinification takes place in a combination of wood and stainless steel vats, and the Grand Vin is aged in 80% new French oak barrels for 18 months.

Many thanks to Karine and the UGC for a delightful visit.

The post Visit to Chateau Lascombes appeared first on Wine Reviews: A Wine Story.

It was delightful to see Lise Latrielle of Chateau Prieure Lichine again, who with technical manager Etienne Charrier welcome our little group for a tour, tasting, and dinner at the Chateau during En Primeur.

As the name infers,  Chateau Prieure Lichine started out as a priory for Benedictine monks. During the French Revolution, Prieure Lichine was seized  and sold at auction. Roughly two centuries later, Alexis Lichine put together a group to purchase the Chateau and try to restore it to its former glory.

Today the chateau is owned by the Ballande groupe, who began to replant large sections of the vineyards.  Stephane Derenoncourt is part of the team with Lise and Etienne.

Several years ago I was fortunate enough to attend a delightful luncheon with other new Master of Wine students, and from that day the biggest change has been in the thoroughly modern cellar.

Lise and Etienne were the perfect hosts, and during dinner we enjoyed a selection of library wines from the estate as well as library wines from the neighboring estates so we could compare and contrast the winemaking and stamp of the terroir.

Thank you so much Lise and Etienne for entertaining our group of international journalists and to the UGC for making this visit possible.

The post Visiting Prieure Lichine in Margaux appeared first on Wine Reviews: A Wine Story.

It was great to see Charlotte Denjean, PR manager for Chateau Lagrange, again after the UGC visit to New York a few weeks ago.

Chateau Lagrange is one of the most imposing looking castles in Bordeaux. The wine is among the best of the best, yet interestingly it wasn’t until 1842 when then-owner Count Duchatel added a drainage system in the vineyard did the wine really attract positive notice.

In the century that followed, the usual story of debt and inheritance rocked the estate. Today it is owned by the Japanese company Suntory, a company that spent an enormous amount of money replanting the vineyards and restoring the 118 hectare estate.

Vinification takes place in temperature controlled, stainless steel vats that range in size to accommodate individual parcels. The wine is aged in 60% new, French oak barrels for up to 21 months before bottling.

During the tasting, the quality was quite apparent, both in the Grand Vin as well as the second wine, Les Fief de Lagrange.

We also had the opportunity to taste the new white Bordeaux, made from 60% Sauvignon Blanc 20% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Gris called Les Arums de Lagrange.

Many thanks to Charlotte and the UGC for this special visit.

The post Visit to Chateau Lagrange appeared first on Wine Reviews: A Wine Story.

The 2015 Bordeaux vintage looks to be one of the great ones, and on this visit to En Primeur my first interview was with Adrien Olivier of Domaine de Chevalier.

Adrien’s father Olivier bought the domaine in 1983, so Adrien and his brother grew up on he estate. Adrien knows winemaking, yet has an MBA and is very focused on the business end of the family estate. He spent many years working in Asia developing the distribution market in that area and is now back living in Bordeaux.

During our conversation, we spent a great deal of time discussing ways of developing a new market, such as China. Adrien is a firm believer in education, so when he was in Asia he educated both distributors and consumers on how to taste and appreciate wine. When he was working in China, not many distributors or consumers spoke French, or English for that matter – so Adrian found himself forced to learn and speak the language.

What was surprising is that in China, Bordeaux isn’t just consumed on the ontrade – in high end restaurants. High end Bordeaux is very popular at Carrefour supermarkets, even more than high end wine shops, because local consumers know and respect the brand.

Adrien and I both spoke at length about the importance of social media, and if you google Domaine de Chevalier on the Internet, you will find dozens of videos of the Olivier family discussing the estate and their wines. One of the key values of social media, Adrien explained, is when people repost the videos. One popular video received over 15,000 views in just a two week period.

The Sunday before En Primeur week can be considered its unofficial kickoff. It is held at Chateau Guiraud. The reason is that during a dinner in early 2006, industrialist Robert Peugeot and three wine makers, Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, Stephan Von Neipperg of Château Canon La Gaffelière and Xavier Planty, the estate’s director, decided to buy Guiraud, uniting their shared passion for wine, gastronomy, nature and hunting. The event showcases the latest vintage of each producer and a fine offering of older vintages as well.

That night I also spoke to the charming David Ornon of Chateau Guiraud, and we discussed the export market at length. I wrote about Sauternes in a feature article for World of Fine Wine, and will link it once I return to New York next week. My main thought was that Sauternes should be served at the beginning of a meal, as an aperitif, the way many people now enjoy Champagne.

I had the opportunity to taste the Clos des Lunes brand of white wine from Domaine de Chevalier, and found it intriguing that it is made in three styles: one matured in stainless steel, one matured with a percentage of new oak, and one matured in 100% new oak. The reason for this, Adrien explained, is that the estate has a variety of terroir, and some are better suited to oak than others.

Adrien is just as charming as his father Olivier, and has a genuine passion for wine and bringing the message of Domaine de Chevalier around the world.

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Have you heard of Jura Wine?

It’s a fabulous region just about an hour from Burgundy, with ancient soil like Burgundy – but ‘in reverse.’ In Burgundy, we discovered, the ancient soil is very deep, and in the Jura it’s right up on top.

Though I’ve had the pleasure of tasting a lot of Jura wine in my time, one thing I did not realize is that Pliny, the famous wine historian, knew this region in the first century.

In any event wine educator DJ Kearney, the speaker did a great job of giving the packed audience the history of the region and leading us through a tutored tasting of the Jura Wine. Everything was delicious but my favorite was Vin Jaune 2008 from the Savignin grape.

Another great thing about the event was that the producers got up to speak and answer questions. Laura Seibel, owner of Domaine de la Pinte, got up to speak about her Poulsard and it was pretty fascinating as she is biodynamic and the recent vintages were fairly challenging.

The post Jura Wine Comes to NYC appeared first on Wine Reviews: A Wine Story.

“Did you know that a bottle of Chateau Bonnet is sold every 20 seconds?” says energetic Laurent Belisaire, smiling at the people around the table.

Actually, before this afternoon, I did not realize how popular Chateau Bonnet is, or that Les Vignobles André Lurton, who produces it, is currently one of the largest wineries in the Bordeaux region. Laurent is Export Director for Les Vignobles André Lurton, studied business and marketing in the US and Japan, and has worked for Mr. Lurton since 2005.

The reason for the lunch, held at Restaurant Daniel, was to celebrate the collaboration of famed consultant Michel Rolland with Les Vignobles André Lurton, and discuss the strategy for the U.S. market. Bill Deutsch, Chairman of Deutsch Family Wines, was seated next to Michel Rolland and spoke extensively of their first meeting that seeded the beginning of their relationship.

Laurent, speaking on behalf of Mr. Lurton, explained that Mr. Lurton is first and foremost a wine maker. For almost 70 years, Mr. Lurton dedicated his life to the vineyard.

From Mr. Rolland’s talk, the tacit move now – especially for the American market – is for the company to create wines for the American market that are ready to drink now, upon release, and not wait for them to “develop.”

This very much went in line with the wines we tasted from Les Vignobles André Lurton today, including the Chateau Bonnet Blanc 2015 and Rouge (2012) as well as two excellent wine from Chateau de Rochemorin (2012, 2001) and three outstanding wines from Chateau La Louviere (Roughe 2012, 2010, and 1986).

Les Vignobles André Lurton has 640 hectares of vines, planted in the best soils over 6 prestigious Bordeaux appellations in Bordeaux.

From Fanny Van de Velde, the Area Sales Manager for North America, I learned the company’s head-office is at Château Bonnet in Grézillac where André Lurton was born. The red and white vineyard covers almost 300 hectares in several appellations: Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux Red and Rosé. Interestingly, Les Vignobles André Lurton also includes 260 hectares of vines in Pessac-Léognan. This appellation was created by André Lurton and selectively groups the best ‘terroirs’ of the Graves region – the historical birth place of the Grands Vins de Bordeaux.

It was a stunning lunch, with the wines very well accompanying the cuisine of Restaurant Daniel.

The post Lunch with Michael Rolland Featuring Vignobles Andre Lurton appeared first on Wine Reviews: A Wine Story.

Are you curious about some of the smaller houses in Champagne?

Such as Arlaux Champagne?

More to the point, have you wondered about how a majority of Pinot Meunier in Arlaux Champagne expresses itself in the glass?

Recently some of Manhattan’s finest wine writers had the opportunity to taste the wines of Arlaux paired with different expressions of caviar. What makes Arlaux unique and different is both its majority of the Pinot Meunier grape as well as its pre-phylloxera Meunier vine trees.

Our host for this event was charming Pierre-Christian Tramier, proprietor of Arlaux Champagne. The venue was Bar Boulud, and with each Champagne style we were given a generous dollop of a different caviar. It was interesting to see how the pairings were chosen, yet wine is my focus so on to the Champagnes.

Arlaux Champagne

The next wine was the Brut Grand cuvée coming from again 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, and 10% Chardonnay – yet now the color is straw instead of pink. It was very crisp and refreshing.

Next was the Brut Nature NV, with the same cepage as the Brut Grand, but no dosage (that would give it residual sugar).

Arlaux Champagne

The Brut Grand Bourgeois was one of my favorites …. 100% Pinot Meunier with four years of aging. This was followed by the Millesime Rare 2000, 1/3 Pinot Meunier, 1/3 Pinot Noir, and 1/3 Chardonnay and it has been resting until this fabulous moment until we can enjoy it.

Arlaux is not a household name in terms of mass-market Champagne houses. Yet it is unique and special for three key reasons. The first is that not many grower/houses focus on Pinot Meunier and it is great to try this slightly fruitier example in many different styles. Next, the charm of course of Pierre-Christian Tramier, who did a great job of showcasing his family’s values. Then it was the elegance of the tasting itself, the drama if you will, of how everything was arranged just so (the room is beautiful, the glasses set up perfectly, and the caviar pairing element).

It was a pleasure to meet Pierre-Christian and experience the pleasures of this Champagne house

The post Experiencing Arlaux Champagne appeared first on Wine Reviews: A Wine Story.

This year, the Union Des Grand Crus changed the program for journalists, arranging for small groups to make afternoon visits after the En Primeur tasting.

It turned out to be a fabulous idea, as after tasting wine from the various regions in the morning, we had a chance to see the vat rooms, caves, and various Chateaux in the afternoon.

The first visit was at Chateau Soutard in Saint Emlion.

Welcoming us to the Chateau was the energetic Caroline Rihouet, Brand Manager.

Though Caroline was the “human face” of the welcome, it’s really the imposing Chateau itself that does the welcoming from almost a mile away.

The history of Château Soutard can be traced back to 1513, when it was a farm and a mill. Eventually it became a winery and was the first to plant vines in rows. During the 18th century it became one the largest and most regal chateaux in all of Saint Emilion.

The Chateau was bought in 2006 from the La Mondiale insurance company for over 35 thousand Euros, who put a lot of energy, creativity, and money to refurbish the Chateau, the Chai, and focus on improving the vineyard.

As we met in the very modern, nicely stocked gift shop, Caroline explained that the model for the Chateau’s gift shop – as well as its new focus on winery tourism – was California’s Napa Valley.

The Chateau has now been restored to its glistening18th century glory, and the Chai has decided 20th century touches such as its own room for malolactic fermentation, many other improvements, and an expansive glass elevator that descends down to the tasting room.

The tasting room looks like a futuristic James Bond film, yet had large decorative rocks to remind visitors that everything in wine comes from the soil.

In addition to the Grand Vin from Chateau Soutard we tasted the second wine, Les Jardins de Soutard, and the other wines owned by La Mondiale La Larmande and Grand Faurie La Rose. All were incredibly balanced with rich concentrated fruit, balancing acidity, moderate acidity, and a long finish.

Very appreciative of Caroline and the UGC to provide this special experience for us.

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“Welcome!” says attractive Monique Bailly, as our car pulls into the driveway in front of Chateau Clinet in Pomerol.

With her long blonde hair Monique looks like the total California girl yet she is half British and French. As she welcomes us into the tasting room she tells us a little bit about the Chateau.

The name CLINET can be read “Cliné” on the Belleyme map of 1785 where it appears among a cluster of wines around the ancienne église. The name could derive from the old French ‘cliner’, used during the 16th century. The word meant to ‘bow’ or ‘lean’ – possibly a reference to the slope, which runs down from the famous Plateau de Pomerol, providing natural drainage.

Château CLINET is one of the most prestigious estates of the Pomerol wine region, set amongst the finest parcels of this well-known plateau.

Located 40km to the east of Bordeaux, on the right bank of the Garonne River, its gravelly clay soil makes Pomerol the terroir of the finest Merlots in the world. The natural resources required to produce the exceptional quality of our grapes, simply cannot be reproduced anywhere else on earth.

Successive generations of owners have been producing world-renowned wines here for centuries and, since 1998, it has been the duty and privilege of the Laborde family to perpetuate the highest possible standards, observing the traditions of a strict cultural approach.

The current owner and CEO Ronan Laborde grew up in a weathy family where the children were asked early in life about their interests and how they wanted to make their livelihood. Ronan showed an interest in wine from an early age so in 1999 when Ronan was 19 he and his father Jean-Louis Laborde travelled together to Argentina, looking at potential vineyards to purchase. But destiny brought them back to Bordeaux, when the perfect property presented itself for sale.

As soon as Ronan finished his studies, he became highly involved in the day-to-day management of CLINET, to the point that his father was soon able to comfortably take a step back and return to his former businesses.

Set on the right bank of the Garonne River, the climate is warm and the soil cool with natural drainage. Pomerol is best known for its full-bodied yet refined, elegant and approachable red wines, which are grown from Merlot (80%), Cabernet Franc (15%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) grape varieties.

After explaining the terroir, Monique invited us to dinner which started off with Champagne and continued on with several vintages of their wine — all Merlot based with incredible balance between ripe fruit, racy acidity, and judicious use of oak. Much of the quality can be attributed to the winemaking as well as the unique ‘Gunz gravel’ as Château CLINET’s terroir sits on the famous terrace, which extends along the Isle river towards Libourne, up to Pomerol and Figeac (Saint-Emilion).

It was a delightful visit and many thanks to the Union Des Grand Crus and also the Laborde family for their hospitality.

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What a treat to meet Matthieu Cuvelier, director of the gorgeous Clos Fourtet which his Paris-based family bought several decades ago.

Warm and gregarious, M. Cuvelier greeted us and showed us around the property, just a two minute walk from the center of St Emilion.

The estate existed from the Middle Ages, first as a military fort and then as a winery before it was purchased by the Cuvelier family in 2001. The Cuvelier family also owns Chateau Poujeaux in Moulis in the Haut Medoc.

I had tasted the delicious 2016 vintage during the En Primeur tasting and it got excellent scores, so I was excited to see the property. Though the chateau was quite elegant – as expected – what really excited me was the ancient caves carved out of limestone below. As I suspected, Matthieu’s young family enjoys playing here during weekend visits.

The vines are planted to 85% Merlot,10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and are sustainable with a bent toward being bio-dynamic.

The wine is aged for 18 months in 60% – 80% new French oak barrels. Towards the end of our visit, we tasted the Grand Vin as well as the second wine, Closerie de Fourtet.  The wines are very rich and flavorful, with incredible concentration of fruit and complexity.

It was a great visit and thanks very much to Matthieu Cuvelier and the Union Des Grand Crus for the visit.

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Karine Barbier, Public Relations manager, is a most gracious host as she welcomes us to Chateau Lascombes, a lavish Second Growth estate.

Though the estate existed for centuries its modern era began in 1952 when it was  purchased by a group of investors headed by Alexis Lichine. An enormous amount of time and money was spent bringing both the estate and the winery up to modern standards.

Though the estate is as glamorous as you would expect, the cellar is totally unexpected and a real treat – illuminated by electric blue lights, the cellar could also double as a high-end nightclub for special events.

During the tasting that followed the tour,  it was clear that wine is the real star.

Vinification takes place in a combination of wood and stainless steel vats, and the Grand Vin is aged in 80% new French oak barrels for 18 months.

Many thanks to Karine and the UGC for a delightful visit.

The post Visit to Chateau Lascombes appeared first on Wine Reviews: A Wine Story.

It was delightful to see Lise Latrielle of Chateau Prieure Lichine again, who with technical manager Etienne Charrier welcome our little group for a tour, tasting, and dinner at the Chateau during En Primeur.

As the name infers,  Chateau Prieure Lichine started out as a priory for Benedictine monks. During the French Revolution, Prieure Lichine was seized  and sold at auction. Roughly two centuries later, Alexis Lichine put together a group to purchase the Chateau and try to restore it to its former glory.

Today the chateau is owned by the Ballande groupe, who began to replant large sections of the vineyards.  Stephane Derenoncourt is part of the team with Lise and Etienne.

Several years ago I was fortunate enough to attend a delightful luncheon with other new Master of Wine students, and from that day the biggest change has been in the thoroughly modern cellar.

Lise and Etienne were the perfect hosts, and during dinner we enjoyed a selection of library wines from the estate as well as library wines from the neighboring estates so we could compare and contrast the winemaking and stamp of the terroir.

Thank you so much Lise and Etienne for entertaining our group of international journalists and to the UGC for making this visit possible.

The post Visiting Prieure Lichine in Margaux appeared first on Wine Reviews: A Wine Story.

It was great to see Charlotte Denjean, PR manager for Chateau Lagrange, again after the UGC visit to New York a few weeks ago.

Chateau Lagrange is one of the most imposing looking castles in Bordeaux. The wine is among the best of the best, yet interestingly it wasn’t until 1842 when then-owner Count Duchatel added a drainage system in the vineyard did the wine really attract positive notice.

In the century that followed, the usual story of debt and inheritance rocked the estate. Today it is owned by the Japanese company Suntory, a company that spent an enormous amount of money replanting the vineyards and restoring the 118 hectare estate.

Vinification takes place in temperature controlled, stainless steel vats that range in size to accommodate individual parcels. The wine is aged in 60% new, French oak barrels for up to 21 months before bottling.

During the tasting, the quality was quite apparent, both in the Grand Vin as well as the second wine, Les Fief de Lagrange.

We also had the opportunity to taste the new white Bordeaux, made from 60% Sauvignon Blanc 20% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Gris called Les Arums de Lagrange.

Many thanks to Charlotte and the UGC for this special visit.

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What a fun visit to Domaine Treloar,  a small, high-quality wine producing estate located in the Village of Trouillas in the Pyrenees-Orientales department of France.

I must say that it was a fun surprise to hear a friendly New Zealand accent warmly greeting me as I arrived. It was the vice of owner Rachel Treloar (of Maori and Cornish ancestry) who lives and works at the domaine with her English husband Jonathan Hesford and their very young children.

Jonathan is a qualified Viticulturist and Oenologist. He graduated top of his class at Lincoln University, New Zealand’s premiere wine academy. Interestingly, he worked for two years as the assistant winemaker at Neudorf Vineyards, one of the most highly regarded wineries in New Zealand. One of Neudorf’s wines was actually on the Masters of Wine exam, and I am quite familiar with their viticultural goals.

The couple actually lived in Manhattan during 9/11, just a block away from the World Trade Center. The event changed their lives. They lost everything and decided to focus on what mattered in their lives. They decided they wanted a different life for their children, so a desire to own a vineyard was born.

They sell their wine internationally to some of the finest wine shops in the world, such as Cambridge Wine Merchants. Rachel spoke at length about their neighbors who have helped them settle in and adjust to life in the Roussillon.  She also spoke about the way that they also try to help and advise people who want to emulate the life style changes they have made for themselves in the Roussillon..

Rachel now brings out the cleverly named wines for the tastings. They include One Block Grenache 2015, a fragrant wine made from a single block of Grenache.  The Secret 2013 is made from Syrah and Grenache that sees some oak maturation, Tahi 2011 is a tart red wine made from Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre.  All the varieties are aged separately in oak barrels.  Finally, we try the delicious sweet wine Muscat de Rivesaltes 2014.

It was an excellent tasting of well-crafted wine, and a great introduction to an adventurous couple with vision.

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What a wonderful visit to Domaine Ferrer Ribiere  in Terrats. This is a small winery in the foothills of the Canigou, just 15 km South-West of Perpignan, near Spain. The Domaine consists of 29 hectares of vineyards located on a variety of soil types. The plots are small and the altitude is high, allowing for very fresh wines with excellent expression of terroir.

The domaine is owned by two partners, Denis Ferrer who takes care of the vines, and Bruno Ribiere, who makes the wines and in doing so, endeavors to express the soils and vines his partner has tended. The men try to work in an organic and biodynamic way.

Our guide on this day is Bruno Ribiere, a gentleman who loves experiments and often talks about philosophy as he does wine, giving visitors the impression that they are one in the same thing. He is also something of a “mad scientist” in the best sense of the word, as he loves to experiment.

As we are shown around the winery we see odd yet intriguing equipment, such a giant egg that is made out of a lighter weight synthetic material, not the typical (and expensive) concrete. It is less expensive than the concrete egg, yet accomplishes the same function.

When it comes time to taste the wines, we sit down and begin with the 2016 Grenache Blanc Cotes Catalanes. It is a delicious wine with 14% abv and a deliberate oxidative quality that makes it excellent for pairing with fine cuisine.

The next wine is the Grenache Gris 2015, with 14.5 % abv and again a saline minerality, with some positive flavors of green olives.

The Cuvee F 2015 is made of Carignan and Grenache, and it is a very rich complex wine. It is made in a traditional way for the region, with the Carignan vinified separately in a carbonic way (the grapes undergo intracellular fermentation) which is said to soften their tannins. The Grenache is vinified as usual and they are blended.

Ferrer Ribiere

The Cuvee 1887 is made from Carignan and is absolutely delicious, a very dark purple black color and aromas of wild violet. The silky tannin is a result of being aged in the egg shaped maturation vessel we saw in the winery. The fabulous flavors here are that of wild herbs, garrigue, and earth.

Syrah Nos Saurus Rex is an inky black color, aged in Demi-muid and again offers bold, magnificent bold red/black fruit. This is followed by the 2015 Mourvedre, a rich fuller bodied wine clocking in at 15.5% abv with ripe, structured tannins.

The 2001 blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan has 17% abv, but you do not feel its warmth because of the rich texture and elegant expression, along with the lively acidity. The fermentation for this wine lasted a month, and the texture was like jam. Afterwards, the wine was put into barrel and aged under close observation.

We try the Vin Doux Naturel, which has zesty acidity and stony minerality. The grapes are picked when exactly ripe, not over-ripe.

But how do they know when to pick? “When the wild boars come out,” says Bruno, in all seriousness. For centuries, it seems, the wild boars know the exact moment the grapes are ripe.

We try some other delicious sweet wines, such as the 2015 Matero cuvee with succulent flavors of blackcurrant and blueberry, and the Rancio 2003, a delicious wine made in a deliberately oxidative style that I find delicious. It is made from a blend of Macabeo, Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Malvasia, Muscat (both of Alexandria and Petits Grains) that would be delicious with cheese.

The last wine is the No Restriction 2016, a sweet wine with a tawny color and aromas of nuts and heavy white flowers.

What a lovely visit to the winery of two passionate gentlemen who love producing delicious wines.

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Our visit of the lovely Collioure area begins with a visit to the famous Terres des Templiers, a cooperative bringing together nearly 650 winemakers who produce collectively 1000 hectares of vines. This is one of the biggest cooperatives in the region, with a very nice showroom as it happens to be near the artistic resort of Collioure.

Our visit begins by meeting our guide, Pierre LaPort, and a tour of the facilities, including the giant old oak barrels that hold thousands of litres of quietly aging Grand Cru Banyuls. Afterwards, we venture into the tasting room to sample the sweet wines, and some delicious dry wines as well.

We begin with a White Collioure made from the grapes of the region, which are Grenache Blanc and Gris along with Vermentino. It is dry and delicious. From that we move on to the Madeloc 2016 (14% abv), a delicious gastronomic white wine with 60% matured in barrel.

The Red Collioure is a blend of Grenache and Mourvedre, from very old vines. It is a spicy wine with oak aging.

The sweet wine tasting begins with Banyuls Vielle Reserve NV made from Grenache, Carignan, and Mourvedre, which had been aged in large barrels for three years.

The last wine of the tasting was the unforgettable Banyuls Grand Cru La Serra 2008, a very good year. Though by law this only needs to be aged 30 months, this wine is aged six years and has incredible concentration.

It was a lovely visit and so wonderful to see these Grand Cru Banyuls barrels, and imagine the millions of dollars of wine silently aging inside them.

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A lovely visit and tasting at Domaine Saint Sebastien. Its owner, the dynamic young Mr. Peronne, also owns a lively Collioure restaurant that overlooks the sea is on a busy boulevard.

We meet Mr. Peronne only briefly at the restaurant, as he has another engagement, yet I can imagine that in summer this must be a favorite place to enjoy good wine from Domaine Saint Sebastien and also the fabulous view.

Energetic young sales manager Pierre Girault whisks us away to the gorgeous 17th century farmhouse turned barrel maturation cellar for our tasting. Set against the low hills of Collioure, I can imagine it looks exactly as it did when it was originally built. The farmhouse is also used as an atmospheric tasting room for VIPs.

We begin the tasting with some excellent dry white wines which include the 2016 Clos Saint Sebastien, made from the typical Collioure blend of white and grey Grenache with some Vermentino. The second wine is a similar blend, but it had been aged for nine months in 600 litres old oak barrels and given battonage to create a richer mouthfeel.

The red Clos Saint Sebastien Inspiration Marine 2015 is 90% Mourvedre and 10% Grenache Noir. It is incredibly well made and delicious, tasting of crushed rocks, violets, and has iron minerality. It takes its name from the vineyards located from the sea. There is no oak here – just maturation in inox.

It is interesting to compare this to the Clos Saint Sebastien Inspiration Celeste 2015, which takes its name from the vineyards located by the mountains. It is made of Grenache Noir and Carignan and has very structured tannins. It is aged in oak barrels for 9 – 15 months.

A real treat comes our way with the 2016 Grenache Noir, which is jammy with ripe black fruit like the inside of a hard candy. It is a sweet wine with 95 g/L of residual sugar and 16.0% abv.

The Inspiration Hors d’Age (a blend of wine with the youngest 20 years old) is truly and inspiration, tasting of cocoa beans and dried plums and structured tannin from the schist soil. It is a mix of wine blended in large old barrels and small demi johns in the sun.

To top everthing off is the Banyuls Grand Cru, tasted from its cask. It had very rich, concentrated flavors and will be priced at $85.

It was a great visit with some truly stunning wines.

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Very nice visit to La Tour Vielle, a winery owned by Vincent Cantié and Christine Campadieu, who both grew up in wine growing families in the area and are passionate about the terroir.  Since purchasing the property in 1981, they modernized their domaine, adding a wine store and cellar.

The couple have twelve hectares of vineyards scattered between Collioure, Banyuls-sur-Mer, and a few other regions on mostly schist soil, with many vineyards overlooking the sea.

On land like this, it is possible for the couple to work in a way known as “La Lutte Raisonee” meaning that though they do not have organic certification, they try to work as naturally as possible. Because the grapevines are constantly exposed to the fierce wind known as “La Tramontane,” rot and disease is rarely a problem. For this reason, yields are also naturally low, which results in a more concentrated wine.

The couple grow Grenache (all colors), Carignan, Mourvedre, Syrah, Roussanne and Vermentino, and make white, red, and  rose, and the traditional sweet Vin Doux Naturel.

During the afternoon we tasted many of their wines. The Colloure Blanc “Les Canadelles” is made from Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, as well as Macabeo, Vermentino and Roussanne. A percentage of the wine is fermented in oak barrels with batonnage for six months. It was crisp and textured, quite delicious. The Collioure Rouge is a blend of Grenache Noir and its usual blending partners, trodden by foot and aged for 10 to 18 months. You can really taste the intensity of the schist soils in these wines.

The fortified wines are made in a traditional way and they were all remarkable. The simple Banyuls Blanc Doux is made from grapes pressed directly after harvest, with alcohol added to stop the fermentation so the wine retains its sweetness.

The Vintage Banyuls is a red/purple colored, non-oxidized wine that is bottled within the first year of aging to retain its deep color. Neutral spirit is added during fermentation to reach 16% abv and residual sugar between 90 and 96 g/L.

The Banyuls “Reserve” is made in a similar way, but after fermentation and the addition of neutral spirit, the wine is divided into three portions and put in three separate vessels: foudre, barrel, and large glass jars. The jars are taken out of doors, with the goal being for the sun to create  deliberate oxidative flavors in the wine.

After a year, the wine in the three vessels is blended into one tank for further aging.

One of the more interesting wines is Banyuls “Vin de Meditation, which is made in a solera process with a base wine from 1952. I also relly liked the Vin de Pays de la Cote Vermeille “Memorie D’Autommes.” Here grapes are picked late and undergo a long fermentation. The wine iis intentionally left to oxidize over two years in barrel.

It was a great visit to passionate producers who have clearly made sacrifices in order to carry on the traditions or the region.

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One of the most unusual meetings of our week of visits was with the fascinating Jonqueres d’Oriola (Jon), who lives in an actual castle with his wife and extended family. However, our meeting with him commenced in his small village shop near the castle where he showcases his Chateau de Corneilla wines and takes meetings.

The shop is bright and modern, with the wines arranged in an attractive fashion (more like a high end trade show exhibition than a village shop). He has many lines of wine, reflecting different quality levels and styles. As we taste through the various lines, he tells us a bit about himself, his family, his wines, and his journey.

Jon’s family came to this area just south of Perpignan, France from Spain in 1337. Just how they ended up living in a castle remains a mystery, but Jon did say that his family had connections with the royal family of Spain. Yet with his fair complexion and fiery red hair, Jon looks more like a Scotsman than a Frenchman of Spanish decent.  And while it may be natural to assume that Jon was literally “to the manner born,” in the course of our conversation it is clear he paid his dues in various other parts of the wine/spirits/beer industry before taking an active role in working with his father in the family’s wine business.  Jon also attended winemaking school in Montpellier.

Jon explains that while the family’s fortified wines have been renowned for many years, it’s only in the past 15 years that their tables wines have gained a similar reputation  The family owns about 50 hectares, with the majority planted with Grenache.  The most famous wine recently is the comically named Gris Gris, a rosé made from Grenache Noir. The name has a double – even a triple – meaning as Vin Gris is a type of rose and the word also means “lucky charm.”  It tastes fresh and delicious and apparently is a big hit in summer at beach restaurants. The label shows a picture of Jon with one of his friends in black and white clothing from the 19^th century.

Jon is particularly proud of the red and white Le Canaille, line with the white wine made from an equal blend of Chardonnay and Macabeo, and the red a blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah. Both wines had great balance.  My favorite wine in a long line of tasting was the Calvacade 2015, a blend of majority Syrah with equal part of Grenache and Mourvedre. It had very silky tannins and a powerful mouthfeel.

The sweet wines were a real treat. The Chateau Corneilla 2016 Muscat de Rivesaltes had a delicious aroma of passion fruit and lychee, while the 2007 Chateau de Corneilla Rivesaltes was rich from having spent six years in barrel.

After the tasting, Jon invited us to tour the castle before dinner. I had anticipated dinner in the castle, but it turns out that we would be having dinner in an ancient water well just outside the castle.

Years earlier, Jon decided to turn the old well into a storage area for his wine. The size of a very small studio apartment, the well is outfitted with bottles of aging wine, fine books, candles, and even a table. Though I was initially hesitant to go down the steep ladder that led to the cellar, upon learning that his grandmother and very pregnant wife have made the journey, I bravely climbed down the ladder stairs and was rewarded with delicious wine and a fine meal.

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